which
horses and riders seemed to be exactly suited to one another.

The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was over. The
gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to the
landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an Indian
coachman, attended by a Chinese footman. I was immediately surrounded
by a vociferating crowd, each individual member of which was anxious
to extol the merits of his own sampan. The carriage having driven off,
I was quite alone, and had some difficulty in dispersing them, and
being allowed to enter the sampan I had selected. However, I did
succeed at last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to
take me to 'the white ship,' as the yacht is generally called,
returned on board to rest.

CHAPTER XXII.

TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER.

_Sails of silk and ropes of sandal_
_Such as gleam in ancient lore,_
_And the singing of the sailors,_
_And the answer from the shore._

_Tuesday, February 27th_.--Until half-past ten we were occupied in the
pleasant task of reading news from home--all good this time, I am
happy to say. At 10.30 we landed and went up the hill to breakfast
with Sir Arthur and Miss Kennedy, and heard a good deal about the
colony. It is wonderful to think that thirty years ago it scarcely
existed, and now it is a large and flourishing place, with splendid
houses, institutions, roads, and gardens. We were also most agreeably
surprised by the beauty of the scenery. It is really lovely, and,
though the hills around are barren, wherever cultivation has been
attempted, vegetation appears to flourish luxuriantly. The climate
cannot be very bad, judging by the healthy look of the residents and
troops. Typhoons seem to be the greatest drawback. They come without
any warning, and it is impossible to guard against them and their
disastrous effects. Thousands of lives, and millions of pounds' worth
of property, are destroyed in a few hours. We have been shown some of
the effects of a very severe typhoon that occurred in 1874. It seems
almost incredible that the mere force of the wind can snap iron posts
in two, break granite columns, and blow off heavy roofs.

After breakfast the ceremony of presenting the departing Governor with
a State umbrella took place. It was a token of respect from ten
thousand Chinese inhabitants of Hongkong, and is the greatest
compliment that can be paid to any official. It arrived in a large
cam