rom Harpe Island is very well. We have not seen him all the
cold weather, as he has been buried in straw in a box, but they say
that the cold has stopped his growth.

We were continually passing islands throughout the day, sometimes six
or seven being in sight at one time, some with active and more with
extinct volcanoes. We saw smoke issuing from three of the cones, but
by night we were too far off to notice the flames.

_Wednesday, February 21st_.--The calm still continues. The sun is
bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere warm. During the night we
passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and Yoko Sima.

In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped steaming, and
before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at the rate of ten knots.

_Thursday, February 22nd_.--The same delightful breeze continued
throughout the night and most of the day. By noon we had done 220
miles. Everybody had on summer clothes, and we all felt ourselves
gradually expanding after being shrivelled up by the cold of the last
month.

I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the winter. You
do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the scanty protection
afforded by houses and carriages makes travelling a penance rather
than a pleasure. Travellers, however, who wish to see Japan should do
so at once; for the country is changing every day, and in three years
more will be so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or
a violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place, and
then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were even before
the execution of the first treaty. Nothing that we can give them do
they really want; their exports are not large; and they have learned
nearly all they care to know from the foreigner. We have seen many of
the European engineers of Japanese vessels, and they all agree in
declaring that the natives learn to imitate anything they see done
with wonderful quickness. These men also averred that in a few years
there will not be a single foreigner employed in Japan, as the
Japanese will be quite in a position to dispense with such aid; and
although the Government pay foreigners in a high position exceedingly
well, their service offers no career to a young man. His engagement is
for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to do the
work he may go where he likes. I am bound to add that I have heard the
contrary opinion equally strongly expressed; but the facts I have