tattooed. My wheeler had the root of a tree depicted on one foot, from
which sprang the trunk and branches, spreading gradually, until on his
back and chest they bore fruit and flowers, amongst which birds were
perched. On his other leg was a large stork, supposed, I imagine, to
be standing under the shadow of the same tree. Another man had human
figures tattooed all over him, in various attitudes.

[Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha.]

In less than an hour we reached the narrow strip of land which at low
water connects the island or peninsula of Inoshima with the mainland.
This isthmus was covered with natives gathering shells and seaweed,
casting their nets, and pushing off or dragging up their boats; whilst
an island rose fresh and green from the sea, with a background of
snowy mountains, stretching across the bay, above which Fujiyama
towered grandly. This name signifies 'not two, but one mountain,' the
Japanese thinking it impossible that there can be another like it in
the world. The lovely little island is called Inoshima, and is conical
in shape and covered with evergreens and Buddhist temples, with a few
small fishing villages scattered on its shores. We walked right across
it in about an hour; so you may imagine it is not very large. The sea
teems with curiously shaped fish and beautiful shells. The staple food
of the inhabitants seems to be those lovely 'Venus's ears,' [17] as
they are called--a flattish univalve, about as big as your hand, with
a row of holes along the edge, and a lining of brilliant black
mother-of-pearl. These were lying about in heaps mixed with white
mother-of-pearl shells, as big as your two fists, and shaped like a
snail-shell.

[Footnote 17: Haliotis.]

[Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist.]

Our _jinrikisha_ men deposited us at the bottom of the main street of
the principal village, to enter which we passed through a simple
square arch of a temple. The street was steep and dirty, and consisted
principally of shell-fish and seaweed shops.

An old priest took us in hand, and, providing us with stout sticks,
marched us up to the top of the hill to see various temples, and
splendid views in many directions. The camellias and evergreens on the
hillside made a lovely framework for each little picture, as we turned
and twisted along the narrow path. I know not how many steps on the
other side of the island had to be descended before the sea-beach was
reache