only suggestion which presented itself
to me was, that it might be some form of the book, for the book was a
very sacred thing in past time, and that which is yet called the
"Ark," in a Jewish synagogue, contains now nothing but a book. There
is a distinct priesthood who wear vestments, and they use incense,
music, and bells. There are two religions in Japan, Buddhism and
Shintooism; the latter being the primitive faith, and the former an
importation from China. The forms of the two have become slightly
mixed, both in the construction of their temples and in the
ceremonial; but the remarks I have just made apply particularly to the
Shintoo religion.'

One of the late acts of the government has been to declare the
Shintoo, as the old religion of the country, to be the only State
faith. This is the disestablishment of Buddhism, but it does not imply
its suppression. The Buddhist priests complain very much, saying that
their temples are not now so popular, and many are being closed.
Speculators are buying up their fine bronze bells, and sending them
home to be coined into English pennies and halfpennies. Changes in
faith present many strange aspects, and this is certainly a curious
one.

We strolled about the temple grounds, and ascended the hill to see the
famous bell, which is the second biggest in Japan. The immense beam
which strikes it was unlashed from the platform for our edification,
and the bell sent forth a magnificent sound, pealing over the city and
through the woods. At one of the gates there is a curious staircase,
leading up to the top, and there, over the gate, is seated a figure of
Buddha, surrounded by twelve disciples, all carved in wood and
coloured. They are quite worth a scramble up to see.

From Chiosiu we went right across the city to the temple of Nishni
Hongangi. On our way we were more than once stopped and turned off the
direct road, which was kept by soldiers for the passage of the Mikado
to worship at the tombstone of his innumerable ancestors, real or
imaginary. Being a spiritual Emperor, he has to be well kept up to
his religious duties, and is always being sent off to worship at some
shrine or another, in order to maintain his popularity with the
people, his Ministers meanwhile managing the affairs of state. Tanjo
and Ikawura went off in haste to-day to Tokio, as there are rumours of
a rebellion in the south.

Nishni Hongangi is one of the largest and finest temples we have yet
seen,