sea down.

After struggling until twelve o'clock, and having done but little good
for the last three hours, Tom determined to run back, and in a short
time we found ourselves once more at anchor in the harbour of Kobe. It
was a work of considerable difficulty, owing to the strong wind and
tide, to steer safely among the numerous vessels, and for a few
minutes we thought we were aground, as we did not make the slightest
progress, though the engines were working ahead full speed. The
proveedor's boat came out to us as soon as we were perceived, and we
landed in her; but it was as much as the six stout oarsmen could do to
make way against the wind.

We went for a walk, or rather a scramble, to the waterfall, half-way
up to the Temple of the Moon. Much of the ground was covered with
snow, the streams were frozen at the sides, and there were hanging
icicles to be seen, six feet in length; and yet on either side were
camellias and tea-trees covered with red and white blossoms,
orange-trees, laden with fruit; gold-fish swimming about in ponds,
overhung with maidenhair fern, besides pteris and hothouse ferns,
shaded by bamboos, palms, and castor-oil plants. The order of
vegetation seems to be as much reversed as everything else in this
strange country. In England all those plants would require
conservatories, or at least sheltered spots, and the greatest care,
instead of being exposed to frost and snow.

Getting on board again was even a more difficult business than landing
had been; but we arrived at last without mishap.

_Tuesday, February 13th_.--The wind dropped at sunset, and as it
continued calm all night, Tom ordered fires to be lighted at 4 a.m. By
six o'clock, however, it was blowing harder than ever, and we
therefore decided to make an excursion to Arrima instead of attempting
another start.

We went ashore to make the necessary arrangements, and it was settled
that we should start at ten o'clock, which we did, with the Consulate
constable as our guide.

We had three men to each _jinrikisha_, and went along at a merry pace
through the long straggling towns of Kobe and Hiogo. The cold was
intense, and before we started our poor _jinrikisha_ men were
shivering until they nearly shook us out of the vehicles. Soon they
were streaming with perspiration, and at our first halting-place they
took off almost all their garments, though it was as much as we could
do to keep warm in our furs and wraps. We waited while the