use, we reached the
hotel soon after seven, having taken less than an hour to come five
miles over a very bad road, an inch deep in mud. So much for a
'man-power carriage,' the literal translation of the word
_jinrikisha_.[18] Soon after an excellent dinner we returned on board,
so as to be ready for an early start to-morrow morning.

[Footnote 18: Or 'pull-man-car,' as it is sometimes called.]

_Wednesday, February 14th_.--We were called at 4 a.m. Fires were
lighted, but before steam was up the wind had risen; so our start was
once more postponed to the afternoon. We steamed out to the buoy, from
among the shipping, in order to be able to get away more easily at
night. The wind generally goes down at sunset, and Tom hoped that, by
taking our departure then, we should get through the worst part of the
Inland Sea before the wind again rose with the sun.

After breakfast we went ashore, and dispersed in different directions,
to meet again at the hotel for luncheon. Then we all again separated,
the children going to the circus, whilst I took a drive, with a pair
of black and white Hakodadi ponies, to the foot of the hills behind
the town.

It was a pleasant circuit by pretty valleys, and brought us back to
the town by a different road. I went to pick up the children at the
circus, and found them just coming out, with delighted faces, having
most thoroughly enjoyed themselves. They went on board to tea, but
Mabelle and I went with the Consul in _jinrikishas_ to a Japanese
theatre at Hiogo. The streets were crowded with holiday-makers; for
to-day is the first of the Chinese new year, as yesterday was the
first of the Japanese new year. The floor of the theatre was crowded
with people, all squatting on their heels, each with his or her
chow-chow box and _hibatchi_ or brazier of burning charcoal to keep
themselves warm. The performance frequently goes on for ten or twelve
hours, with short intervals and whole families come and take up their
abode at the theatre for twelve hours at a time. The acting was not
at all bad, and the performers were beautifully dressed.

We did not stay very long at the theatre, but were soon tearing back
again through the streets to the Consulate. These quick rides in a
_jinrikisha_, especially at night, are very amusing. You have the
pleasure of going at a high speed, and yet, being on a level with the
people, you can see much more of them and of their manners than would
be possible in a carr