lt to deal with, are
incorruptible when once the bargain is made. They pack most carefully,
frequently adding boxes, bags, and baskets, not originally included in
the purchase, in order that the articles may travel more safely. The
smallest article is sure to be put in, and the greatest care is taken
of everything, even if they know you do not mean to open the cases for
months.

If it were only warmer, how delightful it would all be! The cold
spoils everything to a certain extent. At night we have to choose
whether to be half frozen in our beds, or stifled with the fumes of
charcoal from the _hibatchis_.

_Thursday, February 8th_.--The sunrise over the city, with the river
and mountains beyond, was superb. We breakfasted at eight; but even by
that hour the courtyard and passage were crowded with vendors of
curiosities of all sorts, and no doubt great bargains might have been
picked up. But we had no time to lose, for our train started at 9.30,
and we had a delightfully rapid drive to the station through the sunny
streets of Kioto.

Arrived at Kobe, we went first to lunch with some friends, and
immediately after hastened on board to receive the foreign Ministers
and other friends; and did not land again that evening.

_Friday, February 9th_.--We left by ten o'clock train for Osaka, which
has been called the Venice of Japan. It is intersected by innumerable
rivers and canals, and boats were continually making their appearance
at points where they were least expected, as our _jinrikisha_ men
hurried us along the narrow and not very sweet-smelling streets. We
went so fast that, more than once before we reached the Mint, I
thought we should have been tipped into one of the canals, as we
turned a sharp corner. Our men upset the baskets and stalls that
encroached on the road, in the most unceremonious manner; but their
proprietors did not seem to mind, many of them quietly moving their
wares out of the way as they heard the shouts that announced our
approach. The smell in the fish-market was disgusting, and enough to
poison the air for miles around, but the people did not seem to mind
it in the least.

At last we left the river and town, and, climbing a slight eminence,
crossed the first moat by a stone bridge, and reached the guard-house
on the other side. There was some hesitation at first about admitting
us; but it was soon overcome. This castle, the last stronghold of the
Tycoon, is built on exactly the same plan as