of
entertainment. Our hotel is situated half-way up the hill called
Maruyama.

After about three-quarters of an hour's ride in the _jinrikiska_, we
were deposited at the bottom of a flight of steps, which appeared to
lead to a temple, but by which we reached the hotel in about five
minutes. We were received by servants, who bowed to the ground, but
who did not speak a word which we could understand. The rooms looked
clean and comfortable, and the dining-room boasted a table and six
chairs, besides several screens and _hibatchis_. The bedrooms, too,
had beds, screens, and washstands; quite an unexpected luxury. Still
more so was a strip of glass about half-way up the screens, through
which we could admire the fine prospect. Anything in the shape of a
transparent window is a complete novelty in a Japanese house, where,
in winter, you feel as if you were imprisoned. The view from the
verandah of the hotel over the pretty fantastic garden, the temple
grounds, the town of Kioto, and the mountains in the distance was an
endless source of delight to me.

The servants soon produced a luncheon, excellently well cooked; and'
directly we had finished it we sallied forth again to see what we
could before dark. First we went to the temple of Gion, a fine
building, standing in extensive grounds, and surrounded by smaller
temples and houses for the priests. The Dutch envoys used to stay here
when they were brought through the country, like prisoners, to pay
their annual tribute for being allowed to trade with Japan. They were
subjected to all kinds of indignities, and used to be made to dance
and sing, pretend to be drunk, and play all sorts of pranks, for the
amusement of the whole court as well as for the Mikado and the
empress, hidden behind a grating.

From Gion we went to see other temples, and wandered about under the
large conifers of all kinds, trying to find out the quarters of the
British Legation for some time, until Sir Harry Parkes returned. The
rooms at his residence were comfortable, but cold-looking, for mats
and paper screens do not look nice in a frost. There were tables and
chairs and paraffin lamps, but no bedsteads, only about a dozen cotton
and silk quilts, some of which were supposed to serve as a couch,
while others were to be used as coverings.

Sir Harry has had, I fear, a great deal of trouble about the yacht.
She is the first vessel of the kind ever seen in Japan, with the
exception of the one sent o