Kioto, and for the presentation of the gentlemen to the
Mikado.

It certainly was a great opportunity for seeing a Japanese holiday
crowd, all dressed in their best. Thousands and thousands of people
were in the streets, who, though naturally anxious to see as much as
possible, behaved in the most quiet and orderly manner. The station
was beautifully decorated with evergreens, camellias, and red berries.
Outside there was a most marvellous pavilion, the woodwork of which
had been entirely covered with evergreens, and ornamented with
life-size dragons and phoenixes (the imperial insignia of Japan), all
made in flowers. The roof was studded with large chrysanthemums--the
private device of the Mikado, that of the Tycoon being three hollyhock
leaves. The sides of the pavilion were quite open, the roof being
simply supported on pillars; so that we could see everything that went
on, both inside and out. The floor was covered with red cloth; the
dais with an extremely ugly Brussels carpet, with a large pattern. On
this the Mikado's throne was placed, with a second canopy above it.
Tom in R.N.R. uniform, the other gentlemen in evening dress,
accompanied the Consul on to the platform to receive the Mikado; while
the children and I went with Mrs. Annesley to seats reserved for the
foreign representatives. There were not many Europeans present; but
the platform was densely crowded with Japanese, sitting on their
heels, and patiently waiting to see the extraordinary sight of their
hitherto invisible spiritual Emperor brought to them by a steam engine
on an iron road. The men had all had their heads fresh shaven, and
their funny little pigtails rearranged for the occasion. The women's
hair was elaborately and stiffly done up with light tortoiseshell
combs and a large pin, and decorated with artificial flowers. Some of
the children were gaily dressed in red and gold under garments, the
prevailing colour of the costumes being dark blue, turned up with red.
They also wore gay embroidered _obis_, or large sashes, which are put
on in a peculiar fashion. They are of great width, and are fastened
tightly round the waist, while an enormous bow behind reaches from
between the shoulders to far below the hips. The garments fit tightly
in front, while at the back they form a sort of huge bunch. On their
high-heeled clogs the women walk with precisely the same gait as
ladies in high-heeled boots. In fact, so exactly do the Japanese women
(you