of Ispahan had been murdered, and the whole province was in
a state of revolt. It was therefore impossible to enter Persia by
this route. I decided in this case to go as far as Mosul, and there
determine my further course according to circumstances.

Before concluding my account of Baghdad, I must state that at first
I was greatly afraid of scorpions, as I had heard that there were
great numbers there; but I never saw one, either in the sardabs or
on the terraces, and during my stay of four weeks only found one in
the court.

CHAPTER XIX. MOSUL AND NINEVEH.

JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN THROUGH THE DESERT--ARRIVAL AT MOSUL--
CURIOSITIES--EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH AND THE VILLAGE OF
NEBBI YUNUS--SECOND EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH--TEL-NIMROUD--
ARABIAN HORSES--DEPARTURE FROM MOSUL.

In order to travel from Baghdad to Mosul safely, and without great
expense, it is necessary to join a caravan. I requested Herr
Swoboda to direct me to a trustworthy caravan guide. I was indeed
advised not to trust myself alone among the Arabs, at least to take
a servant with me; but with my limited resources this would have
been too expensive. Moreover, I was already pretty well acquainted
with the people, and knew from experience that they might be
trusted.

A caravan was to have left on the 14th of June, but the caravan
guides, like the ship captains, always delay some days, and so we
did not start until the 17th instead of the 14th.

The distance from Baghdad to Mosul is 300 miles, which occupy in
travelling from twelve to fourteen days. Travellers ride either
horses or mules, and in the hot months travel during the night.

I had hired a mule for myself and my little baggage, for which I
paid the low price of fifteen krans (12s. 6d.), and had neither
fodder nor anything else to provide.

Every one who intends proceeding with the caravan is obliged to
assemble before the city gate about 5 o'clock in the evening. Herr
Swoboda accompanied me there, and particularly recommended me to the
care of the caravan guide, and promised him in my name a good
bachshish if he saved me all the trouble he could during the
journey.

In this way I entered upon a fourteen days' journey through deserts
and steppes, a journey full of difficulties and dangers, without any
convenience, shelter, or protection. I travelled like the poorest
Arab, and was obliged, like him, to be content to bear the most
burning sun, with no food