ould have been sufficient to have blown them over. The dress of
the people approaches in character to the Oriental; all were very
scantily, dirtily, and raggedly clothed.

Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-tree and another
large tree. In this country trees are rare. The mountains
surrounding us were naked and barren, and in the valleys there grew
at most some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and
chrysanthemums.

The noble pilgrim took upon himself to point out my place under the
large tree, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him no
reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. Ali, who was
far better than he looked, brought me a jug of buttermilk, and
altogether today passed off tolerably pleasantly.

Several women from the village visited me and begged for money, but
I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be
attacked by all if I gave to one. I once gave a child a little
ring, and not only the other children, but their mothers and
grandmothers, crowded round me. It cost me some trouble to keep
them from forcibly emptying my pockets. Since that time I was more
cautious. One of the women here changed her begging manner into one
so threatening, that I was heartily glad at not being alone with
her.

We left this village at 4 in the afternoon. The pilgrim separated
from us, and the caravan then consisted of only five men. In about
an hour and a half we reached an eminence from which we obtained a
view of an extensive and well cultivated hill country. The land in
Kurdistan is without comparison better than in Mesopotamia, and the
country is consequently better inhabited; we were, therefore
continually passing through different villages.

Before nightfall we entered a valley which was distinguished for
fresh rice plantations, beautiful shrubs, and green reeds: a brisk
stream murmured at our side, the heat of the day was now succeeded
by the evening shadows, and, at this moment we had nothing to wish
for. This good fortune, however, did not last long; one of the
pedlars was suddenly taken so ill that we were obliged to stop. He
nearly fell off his mule, and remained motionless. We covered him
with rugs, but beyond that we could not do anything for him, as we
had neither medicines nor other remedies with us. Fortunately, he
fell asleep after a few hours, and we squatted down on the ground
and followed his example.

12th July. This morning our patien