ery small
six and eight-sided pieces, framed in gilded wood; on the door-posts
there was also some gilding. The floor was covered with carpeting;
and at the place where the mistress of the house sat, another piece
of rich carpet was laid over. In Persia, there are no divans, but
only thick round pillows for leaning upon.

Intimation had previously been given of my visit. I found a large
party of women and young girls assembled, who had probably been
attracted here by their curiosity to see a European woman. Their
dress was costly, like that of the princess, but there was a
difference in the jewellery. Several among them were very handsome,
although they had rather broad foreheads, and too prominent cheek-
bones. The most charming features of the Persians are their eyes,
which are remarkable, as well for their size as their beautiful form
and animated expression. Of course, there was no want of paint on
their skins and eye-brows.

This party of women was the most agreeable and unconstrained that I
ever found in Oriental houses. I was able to converse in French
with the mistress of the house, by the help of her son, of about
eighteen, who had received an excellent education in Constantinople.
Not only the son, but also the mother and the other women, were read
and well-informed. Dr. Cassolani, moreover, assured me that the
girls of rich families could nearly all read and write. They are,
in this respect, far in advance of the Turks.

The mistress of the house, her son, and myself, sat upon chairs, the
rest squatted down on carpets round us. A table, the first that I
had seen in a Persian house, was covered with a handsome cloth, and
set out with the most magnificent fruits, sherbets, and various
delicacies, which had been prepared by my host herself; among the
sweetmeats were sugared almonds and fruits, which not only appeared
inviting, but tasted deliciously.

The sweet melons and peaches were just in their prime during my stay
at Tebris. They were so delicious, that it may well be said Persia
is their native country. The melons have more frequently a whitish,
or greenish, than a yellow pulp. They may be eaten entirely, with
the exception of the outermost thin rind; and, if it were possible
for anything to exceed sugar in sweetness, it would be these melons.
The peaches are also juicy, sweet, and aromatic.

Before leaving Tebris, I must say a few words about the people. The
complexion of the common