it was quite necessary that
these should be used, the difference of temperature between this
place and Jalta was very considerable for the short distance.

A second Russian church stands in the new bazaar; it has a large
dome surrounded by four smaller ones, and has a very fine appearance
from the exterior; inside it is small and plain.

The Catholic church, not yet quite finished, vies in point of
architecture with the Russian cathedral.

The streets are all broad, handsome, and regular, it is almost
impossible to lose your way in this town. In every street there are
fine large houses, and this is the case even in the most remote
parts as well.

In the interior of the town lies the so-called "crown garden," which
is not, indeed, very large or handsome, but still affords some
amusement, as great numbers of people assemble here on Sundays, and
festivals, and a very good band of music plays here in summer under
a tent; in winter the performances take place in a plain room.

The botanic garden, three wersti from the town, has few exotic
plants, and is much neglected. The autumn changes, which I again
saw here for the first time for some years, made a truly sad
impression upon me. I could almost have envied the people who live
in hot climates, although the heat is very troublesome.

The German language is understood by almost all but the lowest
orders in Odessa.

On leaving the Russian dominions I had as much trouble with the
passport regulations as on entering. The passport which was
obtained on entering must be changed for another for which two
silver roubles are paid. Besides this, the traveller's name has to
be three times printed in the newspaper, so that if he has debts,
his creditors may know of his departure. With these delays it takes
at least eight days, frequently, however, two or three weeks to get
away; it is not, however, necessary to wait for these forms, if the
traveller provides security.

The Austrian Consul, Herr Gutenthal, answered for me, and I was thus
able to bid adieu to Russia on the 2nd of October. That I did this
with a light heart it is not necessary for me to assure my readers.

CHAPTER XXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS.

CONSTANTINOPLE--CHANGES--TWO FIRES--VOYAGE TO GREECE--QUARANTINE AT
AEGINA--A DAY IN ATHENS--CALAMACHI--THE ISTHMUS--PATRAS--CORFU.

Little can be said of the passage from Odessa to Constantinople; we
continued out at sea and did not land anywhere.