djoining the town are two romantic peaks of rock,
with strong fortified works, upon which stand the telegraph and the
lighthouse. Both are surrounded by artificial ditches, with draw-
bridges leading across. The immediate environs of the town, as well
as the whole island, are rich in delightful groves of olive and
orange trees.
The town contains handsome houses and streets, with the exception of
the bye-streets, which are remarkably crooked and not very clean.
At the entrance of the town stands a large covered stone hall, in
which on one side are the stalls of the butchers; on the other,
those of the fishermen. In the open space in front are exposed the
choicest vegetables and most beautiful fruits. The theatre presents
a very pretty appearance; it would seem, from the sculptures upon
it, to have been used for a church. The principal square is large
and handsome; it is intersected by several avenues, and one side
faces the sea. The palace of the English governor stands here; a
fine building in the Grecian-Italian style.
The famous and much-visited church of St. Spiridion is but small; it
contains many oil-paintings, some are good specimens of the old
Italian School. In a small dark chapel at the furthest end of the
church lies, in a silver sarcophagus, the body of St. Spiridion, who
is held in great veneration by the Ionians. The chapel is always
full of devotees who tenderly kiss the sarcophagus.
On the 29th of October we saw the low mountain-country of Dalmatia,
and on the 30th I entered Trieste, whence I hastened on to Vienna
the day following. I was obliged to pass several days in the
greatest anxiety before the town, as it had been taken by storm on
the last day of October and was not opened until the 4th of
November. It was not until I had seen that all my relations were
safe that I was able to return thanks with a grateful heart to the
good Providence which, in all my dangers and troubles, had so
remarkably protected and preserved me in health and strength. With
equal gratitude I remembered those people who had treated me with
such kindness, had so disinterestedly received me, and through whose
help I had been enabled to overcome the frequent great hardships and
difficulties I encountered.
From my readers I hope for a charitable judgment upon my book, which
in simple language describes what I have experienced, seen and felt,
and makes no higher pretension than that of being sincere and
trustw
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