themselves without end.
When they are travelling, they stop their carriages to perform this
ceremony.

While I was at Redutkale a vessel sailed. The priests were brought
on board, and were obliged to go all over the ship, and pronounce a
blessing upon it on every corner of the sails. They crept into
every cabin or hole, and at last blessed the sailors, who laughed at
them for their trouble.

I constantly found that there was less real religion in those places
where there was the most parade made of it.

CHAPTER XXIII. EUROPEAN RUSSIA.

DEPARTURE FROM REDUTKALE--ATTACK OF CHOLERA--ANAPKA--SUSPICIOUS
SHIP--KERTSCH--THE MUSEUM--TUMULI--CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY--
THEODOSIA (CAFFA)--PRINCE WORONZOFF'S PALACE--THE FORTRESS OF
SEWASTOPOL--ODESSA.

On the 17th of September, at 9 in the morning, the steamer arrived,
and an hour afterwards I was seated on the deck. The vessel was
called Maladetz; it was 140 horse power, and the commandant's name
was Zorin.

The distance from Redutkale to Kertsch is only 420 miles in a
straight line, but for us, who continually kept close to the shore,
it amounted to nearly 580.

The view of the Caucasus--the hills and headlands--the rich and
luxuriant country remains fresh in my memory to this day. In a
charming valley lies the village Gallansur, the first station, at
which we stopped for a short time.

Towards 6 o'clock in the evening, we reached the fortified town
Sahun, which lies partly on the shore, and partly on a broad hill.
Here I saw, for the first time, Cossacks in full uniform; all those
I had previously seen were very badly dressed, and had no military
appearance; they wore loose linen trousers, and long ugly coats,
reaching down to their heels. These, however, wore close-fitting
spencers with breast-pockets, each of which was divided for eight
cartridges, wide trousers, which sat in folds upon the upper part of
the body, and dark blue cloth caps, trimmed with fur. They rowed a
staff officer to the ship.

18th September. We remained the whole day in Sahun. The coal-
boats, from some inconceivable negligence, had not arrived; the
coals were taken on board after we had been some time at anchor, and
our supply was not completed until 6 o'clock in the evening, when we
again started.

19th September. During the night there was much storm and rain. I
begged permission to seat myself on the cabin steps, which I
received; but, after a few minutes, an orde