or invalids were also laid on the deck, and but little
attention was shown to them, beyond stretching a sail-cloth over
them, to keep the wind partially off; but when it rained heavily,
the water ran in on all sides, so that they lay half in the wet.

22nd September. We saw the handsome town and fortress Nowa
Russiska, which contains some very pretty private houses, hospitals,
barracks, and a fine church. The town and fortress lie upon a hill,
and were founded only ten years since.

In the evening, we reached Anapka, which place was taken by the
Turks in 1829. Here the finely wooded mountains and hills, and the
somewhat desolate steppes {320b} of the Crimea commence.

In the course of the day I had an opportunity of observing the
watchfulness and penetration of our commandant. A sailing-vessel
was quietly at anchor in a small creek. The commandant, perceiving
it, immediately ordered the steamer to stop, ordered out a boat, and
sent an officer to see what it was doing there. So far everything
had gone correctly; for in Russia, where the limits of every foreign
fly is known, what a whole ship is about, must also be seen to. But
now comes the comical part of the affair. The officer went near the
ship, but did not board it, and did not ask for the ship's papers,
but merely called out to the captain to know what he was about
there? The captain answered that contrary winds had compelled him
to anchor there, and that he waited for a favourable one to sail to
this place and that. This answer satisfied the officer and the
commandant completely. To me it seemed just as if any one was asked
whether he was an honourable man or a rogue, and then trusted to his
honour when he gave himself a good character.

23rd September. Another bad night; nothing but wind and rain. How
I pitied the poor, sick fellows, and even those who were well,
exposed to this weather on the deck.

Towards noon we arrived at Kertsch; the town can be seen very well
from the sea, as it stretches out in a semi-circle on the shore, and
rises a little up the hill Mithridates {321}, which lies behind.
Higher up the hill is the museum, in the style of a Grecian temple--
circular, and surrounded with columns. The summit of the mountain
ends in a fine group of rocks, between which stand some obelisks and
monuments, which belong to the old burial-place. The country round
is a steppe, covered with artificial earth-mounds, which make the
graves of a ve