the monuments were opened by the Turks; the
remainder were uncovered by the Russian government. Many of the
bodies were found ornamented with jewels and crowns of leaves, like
those in the Museum; an abundance of coins was also found.

The 26th of September was a great festival among the Russians, who
celebrated the finding of the cross. The people brought bread,
pastry, fruit, etc., to the church, by way of sacrifice. The whole
of these things were laid up in one corner. After the service, the
priest blessed them, gave some few morsels to the beggars round him,
and had the remainder packed into a large basket and sent to his
house.

In the afternoon, nearly the whole of the people went to the burial-
ground. The common people took provisions with them, which were
also blessed by the priests, but were hastily consumed by the
owners.

I saw only a few people in the Russian dress. This consists, both
for men and women, of long wide blue cloth coats; the men wear low
felt hats, with broad brims, and have their hair cut even all round;
the women bind small silk kerchiefs round their heads.

Before finishing my account of Kertsch, I must mention that there
are naphtha springs in the neighbourhood; but I did not visit them,
as they were described to me as precisely similar to those at
Tiflis.

The next part of my journey was to Odessa. I could go either by sea
or land. The latter was said to present many objects of beauty and
interest; but I preferred the former, as I had in the first place no
great admiration of the Russian post; and, secondly, I was heartily
anxious to turn my back upon the Russian frontiers.

On the 27th of September, at 8 in the morning, I went on board the
Russian steamer Dargo, of 100 horse power. The distance from Odessa
to Constantinople amounts to 420 miles. The vessel was handsome and
very clean, and the fare very moderate. I paid for the second cabin
thirteen silver roubles, or twenty florins fifty kreutzers (2 pounds
1s. 4d.) The only thing which did not please me in the Russian
steamer, was the too great attention of the steward who, as I was
told, pays for his office. All the travellers are compelled to take
their meals with him, the poor deck passengers not excepted, who
have often to pay him their last kopecs.

About afternoon we came to Feodosia (Caffa), which was formerly the
largest and most important town in the Crimea, and was called the
second Constantinople. It