In spite of the endeavours of Mr. Mansur and his relations to render
my stay bearable, or perhaps, indeed, pleasant, according to their
ideas, I was agreeably surprised when Ali came one morning bringing
the news that he had met with a small freight to Sauh-Bulak (seventy
miles) a place which laid on my road. That same evening I went to
the caravansary, and the next morning, 18th July, was on the road
before sunrise.

Mr. Mansur was to the last very hospitable. He not only gave me a
letter to a Persian living in Sauh-Bulak, but also provided me with
bread for the journey, some melons, cucumbers, and a small bottle of
sour milk. The latter was particularly acceptable to me, and I
would advise every traveller to remember this nourishing and
refreshing drink.

Sour milk is put into a small bag of thick linen, the watery part
filters through, and the solid part can be taken out with a spoon,
and mixed with water as desired. In the hot season, indeed, it
dries into cheese on the fourth or fifth day, but this also tastes
very well, and in four or five days you come to places where the
supply may be renewed.

On the first day we passed continually through narrow valleys
between lofty mountains. The roads were exceedingly bad, and we
were frequently obliged to cross over high mountains to pass from
one valley into another. These stony valleys were cultivated as
much as was possible. We halted at Tschomarichen.

19th July. The road and country was the same as those of yesterday,
except that we had more hilly ground to ascend. We very nearly
reached the height of the first snow region.

Towards evening, we came to Raid, a miserable place with a half-
ruined citadel. Scarcely had we encamped, when several well-armed
soldiers, headed by an officer, made their appearance. They spoke
for some time with Ali, and at last the officer introduced himself
to me, took his place at my side, showed me a written paper, and
made several signs. As far as I could understand, he meant to say
that I was now in Persia, and that he wanted to see my passport.
However, I did not wish to take it out of my portmanteau in the
presence of the whole of the villagers, who were already assembled
round me, and, therefore, explained to him that I did not understand
him. With this assurance he left me, saying to Ali: "What shall I
do with her? She does not understand me, and may go on further."
{279} I do not think that I should have b