e missionary, in which I directed his
attention to the failings of this family, and besought him to
counteract them, by teaching them that religion does not consist
merely in prayers and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church.

My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus. I daily
entreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if
the journey should be attended with some danger. He shook his head
and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that if I
travelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded.

I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer.
I begged the merchant to hire me a horse and a guide, and made up my
mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all
dangers or other circumstances. I knew that I should find American
missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety
about proceeding on further.

The merchant came on the following day, accompanied by a wild-
looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide. I was obliged,
in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay
four times as much; but I was willing to accede to anything to be
able to get away. The bargain was made, and the guide pledged
himself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in
three days. I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained
the other half until we came to our journey's end, so as to be able
to fine him in case he did not keep his agreement.

I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was concluded,
and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars, and
walked about outside the town.

This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of
hills. Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never
annoyed out of doors. The bazaars are less beggarly than those at
Ravandus, the chan is large and comfortable. I found the appearance
of the common people very repulsive. Tall and strongly built, with
marked features, which were still more disfigured by an expression
of wildness and ferocity, they all appeared to me like robbers or
murderers.

In the evening I put my pistols in proper order, and made up my mind
not to sell my life cheaply.

28th July. Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not
start until towards mid-day. I travelled on with my guide through
desolate roads between treeless hills, and trembled involuntarily
when