irst evening I laughed heartily when Mr. Wright told me in what
manner the servant had informed him of my arrival. As I did not
know enough of Persian to be able to tell the servant to announce
me, I merely pointed to the stairs. He understood this, and went up
to his master, saying that there was a woman below who could not
speak any language. Afterwards I asked a servant for a glass of
water, in English; he rushed up stairs as if he had been possessed,
not, as I thought, to get what I wanted, but to tell his master that
I spoke English.

Mr. Wright acquainted the other missionaries of my presence, and
they were so good as to come and visit me. They also invited me to
spend a few days with them in the country, but I accepted their
friendly invitation for one day only, as I had already lost so much
time on the road. They all advised me not to go any further alone;
although they admitted that the most dangerous part of the journey
was past, and recommended me to take with me some armed peasants
when passing the mountains near Kutschie.

Mr. Wright was so good as to look out for a courageous and trusty
guide. I paid double fare, in order to reach Tebris in four,
instead of six days. In order to make the guide think that I was a
poor pilgrim, I gave Mr. Wright the half of the agreed price, and
begged him to pay it instead of myself, and also to say that he
would be paid the other half by Mr. Stevens, the English consul.

I made as good use as possible of the day which I passed at Oromia.
In the morning I visited the town, and afterwards I visited, with
Mrs. Wright, several rich and poor families, in order to observe
their mode of life.

The town contains 22,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by walls, but
not closed by gates; it is possible to pass in and out at any hour
of the night. It is built like all Turkish towns, with this
exception--that the streets are rather broad, and kept clean.
Outside the town are numerous large fruit and vegetable gardens,
which are surrounded by very high walls; pretty dwelling-houses
stand in the centre of the gardens.

The women here go closely veiled. They cover over their heads and
breast with a white kerchief, in which thick impenetrable network is
inserted, at the places opposite the eyes.

In the houses of the poorer classes two or three families live under
one roof. They possess little more than straw mats, blankets,
pillows, and a few cooking utensils, not to forget a