n we reached
Kutschie; he took me to a very cleanly peasant's cottage, among some
excellent people; they immediately laid down a nice carpet for me on
a small terrace, brought me a basin of water to wash, and a quantity
of large black mulberries on a lacquered plate. Afterwards I had
some strong soup with meat, fat, sour milk, and good bread, all in
clean vessels; but what was better than all, the people retired as
soon as they had set the food before me, and did not stare at me as
if I was a strange animal. When I offered to pay these good people,
they would not take anything; I had no opportunity of rewarding them
until the following morning, when I took two men of the family as
guard across the mountains, and gave them twice as much as they are
generally paid; they thanked me, with touching cordiality, and
wished me safety and good fortune on my journey.

2nd August. It occupied three hours to pass the most dangerous part
of these desolate mountains. My two armed men would not, indeed,
have afforded me much protection against a band of robbers, although
they were the means of making the journey less terrible than it
would have been if I had gone with my old guide alone. We met
several large caravans, but all going towards Oromia.

When we had crossed the mountains, the two men left us. We entered
into enormous valleys, which seemed to have been forgotten by
nature, and deserted by man. In my opinion, we were not in any
degree out of the danger, and I was right; for, as we were passing
three ruined cottages in this barren valley, several fellows rushed
out upon us, laid hold of our horses' reins, and commenced rummaging
my luggage. I expected nothing but an order to dismount, and
already saw my little property lost. They talked with my guide, who
told them the tale which I had imposed upon him--that I was a poor
pilgrim, and that the English consuls or missionaries paid all my
travelling expenses. My dress, the smallness of my baggage, and
being alone, agreed perfectly with this; they believed him, and my
silent supplicative look, and let me go; they even asked me if I
would have some water, of which there is a scarcity in these
villages. I begged them for a draught, and so we parted good
friends. Nevertheless I was for some time fearful that they might
repent their generosity and follow us.

We came to the shores of the lake again today, and continued to
travel for some time at its side. After a ride