of fourteen hours,
we rested at a chan in the village of Schech-Vali.

3rd August. The oppressive sense of fear was now at an end. We
passed through peaceful inhabited valleys, where the people were
working in the fields, carrying home corn, tending cattle, etc.

During the hot noon hours we rested at Dise-halil, a rather
considerable town, with very clean streets; the principal street is
intersected by a clear brook, and the court-yards of the houses
resemble gardens. Here also I saw outside the town a great number
of very large gardens surrounded by high walls.

From the number of chans, this town would appear to be very much
visited. In the small street through which we passed, I counted
more than half a dozen. We dismounted at one of them, and I was
quite astonished at the conveniences which I found there. The
stalls were covered; the sleeping-places for the drivers were on
pretty walled terraces; and the rooms for travellers, although
destitute of all furniture, were very clean, and furnished with
stoves. The chans were open to every one, and there is nothing to
pay for using them; at the utmost, a small trifle is given to the
overseer, who provides the travellers' meals.

In this respect, the Persians, Turks, and the so-called uncultivated
people, are much more generous than we are. In India, for example,
where the English build bungalows, travellers must pay a rupee per
night, or even for an hour, which does not include any provision for
the driver or the animals: they are obliged to take their rest in
the open air. The travellers who are not Christians are not allowed
to come into most of the bungalows at all; in a few they are
admitted, but only when the rooms are not required by a Christian;
if, however, one should arrive at night, the poor unbeliever is
obliged to turn out for him without pity. This humane custom
extends also to the open bungalows, which consist only of a roof and
three wooden walls. In the countries of the unbelievers, however,
those who come first have the place, whether they are Christians,
Turks, or Arabs; indeed, I am firmly convinced, that if all the
places were occupied by unbelievers, and a Christian was to come,
they would make room for him.

In the afternoon, we went as far as Ali-Schach, a considerable
place, with a handsome chan.

We here met with three travellers, who were also going to Tebris.
My guide agreed to travel with them, and that we should start at