any one met us. However, thank God, there were no adventures
to go through. We had to fight indeed, but only with tremendous
swarms of large grasshoppers which flew up in some places in clouds.
They were about three inches long, and were furnished with large
wings of a red or blue colour. All the plants and grass in the
district were eaten away. I was told that the natives catch these
grasshoppers and dry and eat them. Unluckily I never saw any such
dish.

After a ride of seven hours we came to a large fruitful and
inhabited valley. Today's journey seemed to promise a favourable
termination, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and
frequently passed villages. Some peasants were still working here
and there in the fields, their appearance greatly amused me: they
wore the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted
with their ragged dress.

We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-Jur.
If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal of
turtle. I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even
in the fields, and had only to pick them up. But then to hunt for
wood, make a fire, and cook! No; I preferred eating a crust of
bread and a cucumber in quiet.

29th July. This morning we reached, in three hours, the village of
Mahomed-Schar. To my astonishment my driver made preparations for
stopping here. I urged him to continue the journey, but he
explained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan,
as the most dangerous part of the journey was now before us. At the
same time he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining
stubble field, and endeavoured to make me understand that in a few
hours a caravan was going our way. The whole day passed, and the
caravan did not appear. I thought that my guide was deceiving me;
and was exceedingly irritated when, in the evening, he arranged my
mantle on the ground for me to sleep. It was now necessary that I
should make a strenuous effort to show the fellow that I would not
be treated like a child, and remain here as long as he thought fit.
Unfortunately I could not scold him in words, but I picked up the
mantle and threw it at his feet, and explained to him that I would
keep the remainder of the fare if he did not bring me to Oromia to-
morrow on the third day. I then turned my back to him (one of the
greatest slights), seated myself on the ground, and, resting my head
in my hands,