gave myself up to the most melancholy reflections.
What should I have done here if my guide had left me, or had thought
fit to remain until a caravan happened to pass by.

During my dispute with the guide, some women had come up from the
village. They brought me some milk and some hot food, seated
themselves by me, and inquired what I was so troubled about.

I endeavoured to explain the whole affair. They understood me and
took my part. They were vexed with my guide, and endeavoured to
console me. They did not stir from me, and pressed me so heartily
to partake of their food, that I found myself compelled to eat some.
It consisted of bread, eggs, butter, and water, which were boiled up
together. Notwithstanding my trouble, I enjoyed it very much. When
I offered the good people a trifle for this meal they would not take
it. They seemed gratified that I was more at ease.

30th July. About 1 o'clock at night my guide began to stir himself,
saddled my horse, and called me to mount. Still I was at a loss to
understand his proceedings, for I saw no signs of a caravan. Could
he mean to take his revenge on me? Why did he travel at night
through a country which he ought to have chosen day-time for? I did
not understand enough Persian to be able to obtain an explanation,
and did not wish to say anything more to the fellow about not
keeping his contract, so I was obliged to go--and I did go.

With great anxiety I mounted my horse and ordered my guide, who was
inclined to ride behind, to go on in front. I had no mind to be
attacked from behind, and kept my hand constantly on my pistols. I
listened to every sound, watched every movement of my guide, even
the shadow of my own horse sometimes scared me; however, I did not
turn back.

After a sharp ride of about half-an-hour, we came up with a large
caravan train, which was guarded by half a dozen well-armed
peasants. It really appeared that the place was very dangerous, and
that my guide had been acquainted with the passing of a caravan.
Nothing caused me more surprise on this occasion, than the indolence
of these people. As they are accustomed to travel in the night
during the hot season, they also continue the custom at other times,
and pass through the most dangerous places, although the danger
would be much less during the day.

After some hours we came to the Lake Oromia, which henceforth
continued on our right side; on the left lay barren hills, ravines