r,
although it only consisted of a few lines, and then greeted me with
a repeated salaam, which means "you are welcome."

The good man must have concluded that I had not tasted any food
today, for he very hospitably ordered breakfast immediately,
consisting of bread, sheep's cheese, and melons. These were eaten
all together. My hunger was so great that I found this plan
excellent. I ate without ceasing. The conversation, on the
contrary, was not so successful; my host did not understand any
European language, nor I any Asiatic language. We made use of
signs, and I took pains to make him understand that I was desirous
of going on further as soon as possible. He promised to do his
utmost for me, and also explained that he would see to me during my
stay; he was not married, and therefore could not receive me into
his own house, but would take me to one of his relations.

After breakfast was ended he took me to a house resembling those of
the Arabs at Kerkil, except that the court-yard was very small, and
completely filled with rubbish and puddles. Under the door-way,
four ugly women with half-ragged clothes, were seated upon a dirty
rug, playing with some little children. I was obliged to sit down
with them, and undergo the usual curious examination and staring.
For some time I put up with it, but then left this charming society,
and looked about for a place where I could arrange my toilette a
little. I had not changed my clothes for six days, having been
exposed, at the same time, to a heat which was far greater than that
under the line. I found a dirty and smutty room, which, in addition
to the disgust it excited, made me fear the presence of vermin and
scorpions; of the latter I had a particular dread. I thought at
first that they were to be found in every place, as I had read in
many descriptions of travels that they were innumerable in these
countries. My fear lessened afterwards, as I did not meet with any,
even in the dirtiest places; in ruins, court-yards, or sardabs.
Altogether I only saw two during my whole journey, but I suffered a
great deal from other vermin, which are only to be removed by
burning the clothes and linen.

I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room, when one
woman after the other came in; the women were followed by the
children, and then by several neighbours, who had heard of the
arrival of an Inglesi; I was worse off here than under the gateway.

At last, one of t