deterred them from visiting me on the day of my arrival, when
they knew I was fatigued by the long ride. I would willingly have
excused their visit today also, for neither the rich nor poor Arabs
have much idea of cleanliness. They, moreover, would put the little
dirty children into my arms or on my lap, and I did not know how to
relieve myself of this pleasure. Many of them had Aleppo boils, and
others sore eyes and skin diseases. After the women and children
had left, my host came. He was, at least, clean in his dress, and
conducted himself with more politeness.

On the 2nd of July I left Hilla at sunrise, and went on, without
stopping, to the Khan Scandaria (sixteen miles), where I remained
some hours; and then went the same day as far as Bir-Zanus, sixteen
miles further. About an hour after midnight I again halted, and
took a soldier to accompany me. We had scarcely proceeded four or
five miles from the khan when we perceived a very suspicious noise.
We stopped, and the servant told me to be very quiet, so that our
presence might not be detected. The soldier dismounted, and crept
rather than walked in the sand to reconnoitre the dangerous spot.
My exhaustion was so great that, although alone in this dark night
on the terrible desert, I began to doze upon the horse, and did not
wake up till the soldier returned with a cry of joy, and told us
that we had not fallen in with a horde of robbers, but with a
sheikh, who, in company with his followers, were going to Baghdad.
We set spurs to our horses, hastened after the troop, and joined
them. The chief greeted me by passing his hand over his forehead
towards his breast; and, as a sign of his good will, offered me his
arms, a club with an iron head, covered with a number of spikes.
Only a sheikh is allowed to carry such a weapon.

I remained in the sheikh's company until sunrise, and then quickened
my horse's pace, and at about 8 o'clock was again seated in my
chamber at Baghdad, after having, in the short space of three days
and a half, ridden 132 miles and walked about a great deal. The
distance from Baghdad to Hilla is considered to be sixty miles, and
from Hilla to Birs Nimroud six.

I had now seen everything in and around Baghdad, and was desirous of
starting on my journey towards Ispahan. Just at this time the
Persian prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza, sent me a letter, informing
me that he had received very bad news from his native country; the
governor