ations. The caravan guide endeavoured to give me some little
shade by laying a small cover over a couple of poles stuck into the
ground; but the place was so small, and the artificial tent so weak,
that I was compelled to sit quietly in one position, as the
slightest movement would have upset it. How I envied the
missionaries and scientific men, who undertake their laborious
journeys furnished with horses, tents, provisions, and servants.
When I wished, shortly afterwards, to take some refreshments, I had
nothing but lukewarm water, bread so hard that I was obliged to sop
it in water to be able to eat it, and a cucumber without salt or
vinegar! However, I did not lose my courage and endurance, or
regret, even for a moment, that I had exposed myself to these
hardships.

We set out again about 8 o'clock in the evening, and halted about 4
in the morning at Deli-Abas. The low range of mountains still
remained at our side. From Deli-Abas we crossed the river Hassei by
a bridge built over it.

20th June. We found a chan here; but it was so decayed that we were
obliged to encamp outside, as there is danger of snakes and
scorpions in such ruins. A number of dirty Arab tents lay near the
chan. The desire for something more than bread and cucumber, or
old, half-rotten dates, overcame my disgust, and I crept into
several of these dwellings. The people offered me buttermilk and
bread. I noticed several hens running about the tents with their
young, and eagerly looking for food. I would gladly have bought
one, but as I was not disposed to kill and prepare it myself, I was
obliged to be contented with the bread and buttermilk.

Some plants grow in this neighbourhood which put me in mind of my
native country--the wild fennel. At home I scarcely thought them
worth a glance, while here they were a source of extreme
gratification. I am not ashamed to say, that at the sight of these
flowers the tears came into my eyes, and I leant over them and
kissed them as I would a dear friend.

We started again today, as early as 5 in the evening, as we had now
the most dangerous stage of the journey before us, and were desirous
of passing it before nightfall. The uniformly flat sandy desert in
some degree altered in character. Hard gravel rattled under the
hoofs of the animals; mounds, and strata of rock alternated with
rising ground. Many of the former were projecting from the ground
in their natural position, others had been