We saw,
today, some herds of gazelles, which ran leaping past us.

On the 27th of June we made our encampment near the miserable little
town Attum-Kobri. Before reaching it, we crossed the river Sab
(called by the natives Altum-Su, golden water), by two old Roman
bridges. I saw several similar bridges in Syria. In both instances
they were in good preservation, and will apparently long remain as
evidences of the Roman power. Their wide and lofty arches rested
upon massive pillars, and the whole was constructed of large square
blocks of stone; the ascent of bridges of this kind is so steep that
the animals are obliged to scramble up like cats.

On the 28th of June we reached the town of Erbil (formerly Arbela),
where, to my great chagrin, we remained until the evening of the
following day. This little town, which is fortified, is situated
upon an isolated hill in the centre of a valley. We encamped,
fortunately, near some houses outside the town, at the foot of the
hill. I found a hut, which was tenanted by some men, two donkeys,
and a number of fowls. The mistress, for a small acknowledgment,
provided me a little place, which at least sheltered me from the
burning heat of the sun. Beyond that, I had not the slightest
convenience. As this hut, in comparison with the others, was a
complete palace, the whole of the neighbours were constantly
collected here. From early in the morning till late in the evening,
when it is the custom to recline upon the terraces, or before the
huts, there was always a large party; one came to gossip, others
brought meal with them, and kneaded their bread meanwhile, so as not
to miss the conversation. In the background, the children were
being washed and freed from vermin, the asses were braying, and the
fowls covering everything with dirt. These, altogether, made the
stay in this place more unbearable than even hunger and thirst.
Still, I must say, to the credit of these people, that they behaved
with the greatest propriety towards me, although not only women, but
a great number of men of the poorest and lowest class, were coming
backwards and forwards continually; even the women here left me in
quiet.

In the evening, some mutton was cooked in a vessel which just before
was full of dirty linen steeped in water. This was emptied out,
and, without cleaning the pot, it was used to prepare the food in
the same manner as at the house of my guide.

On the 30th of June we halted