but bread and water, or, at the most, a
handful of dates, or some cucumbers, and with the hot ground for a
bed.

I had, while in Baghdad, written out a small list of Arabian words,
so that I might procure what was most necessary. Signs were easier
to me than words, and by the aid of both, I managed to get on very
well. I became in time so used to the signs that, in places where I
could make use of the language, I was obliged to take some pains to
prevent myself from using my hands at the same time.

While I was taking leave of Herr Swoboda, my little portmanteau, and
a basket with bread and other trifles, had already been put into two
sacks, which were hung over the back of the mule. My mantle and
cushion formed a comfortable soft seat, and everything was in
readiness--only the mounting was rather difficult, as there was no
stirrup.

Our caravan was small. It counted only twenty-six animals, most of
which carried merchandise, and twelve Arabs, of whom five went on
foot. A horse or mule carries from two to three and a half
hundredweight, according to the state of the road.

About 6 we started. Some miles outside the town several other
travellers joined us, chiefly pedlars with loaded animals, so that
presently our party increased in numbers to sixty. But our numbers
changed every evening, as some always remained behind, or others
joined us. We often had with us some shocking vagabonds, of whom I
was more afraid than robbers. It is, moreover, said not to be
uncommon for thieves to join the caravan, for the purpose of
carrying on their depredations, if there should be an opportunity of
doing so.

I should, on the whole, have no great faith in the protection which
such a caravan is capable of affording, as the people who travel in
this way are principally pedlars, pilgrims, and such like, who
probably have never in their lives used a sword or fired a gun. A
few dozen well-armed robbers would certainly get the better of a
caravan of even a hundred persons.

On the first night we rode ten hours, until we reached Jengitsche.
The country around was flat and barren, uncultivated and
uninhabited. Some few miles outside Baghdad cultivation appeared to
be suddenly cut off, and it was not until we came to Jengitsche that
we saw again palms and stubble fields, showing that human industry
is capable of producing something everywhere.

Travelling with caravans is very fatiguing: although a walking pace
is never