s are visible in every
direction; these all contain, at a slight depth, bricks and rubbish.

Not far from the ruins stands a plain mosque, which holds the tomb
of Selamam Pak. This man was a friend of Mahomet's, and is on that
account honoured as a saint. I was not allowed to enter the mosque,
and was obliged to content myself with looking in through the open
door. I saw only a tomb built of bricks, surrounded by a wooden
lattice, painted green.

I had already observed a number of tents along the banks of the
Tigris on first reaching the ruins; my curiosity induced me to visit
them, where I found everything the same as among the desert Arabs,
except that the people were not so savage and rough; I could have
passed both day and night among them without apprehension. This
might be from my having been accustomed to such scenes.

A much more agreeable visit was before me. While I was amusing
myself among the dirty Arabs, a Persian approached, who pointed to a
pretty tent which was pitched at a short distance from us, and said
a few words to me. My guide explained to me that a Persian prince
lived in this tent, and that he had politely invited me by this
messenger. I accepted the invitation with great pleasure, and was
received in a very friendly manner by the prince, who was named Il-
Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza.

The prince was a handsome young man, and said that he understood
French; but we soon came to a stop with that, as his knowledge of it
did not extend beyond "Vous parlez Francais!" Luckily, one of his
people had a better acquaintance with English, and so we were able
to carry on some conversation.

The interpreter explained to me that the prince resided in Baghdad,
but on account of the oppressive heat, he had taken up his residence
here for some time. He was seated upon a low divan under an open
tent, and his companions reclined upon carpets. To my surprise, he
had sufficient politeness to offer me a seat by his side upon the
divan. Our conversation soon became very animated, and his
astonishment when I related to him my travels increased with every
word. While we were talking, a nargilly of most singular beauty was
placed before me; it was made of light-blue enamel on gold,
ornamented with pearls, turquoises, and precious stones. For
politeness' sake, I took a few puffs from it. Tea and coffee were
also served, and afterwards the prince invited me to dinner. A
white cloth was spread upon the ground,