road Menam River, with banks showing
masses of foliage, and with tiny Siamese villages or isolated houses
built close to the water's edge, supported on piles, with thatched roofs
and sides.

* * * * *

BANGKOK, _March 4th_: Arriving at Bangkok, we took the steamer launch
for the Oriental Hotel, which is situated on the river-bank. The canals
leading out of the river reminded us of Batavia. A drive in the
afternoon of our arrival, accompanied by the Rev. Mr.----, a medical
missionary, as a non-professional guide, was a new experience and an
agreeable one, for during the afternoon and evening we learned many
things about the King that a native guide would not have told us. The
report showed the King to be progressive in his tendencies; as the
result of several trips to Europe, he has introduced railways,
telegraph and modern business appliances, and is making a great effort
to beautify the city and to improve sanitary conditions, having employed
French engineers for that purpose.

[Illustration: _The King of Siam_]

I think it might be well to give a slight historical background in order
the better to understand the conditions of Siam. It is thought that the
aborigines of Siam were driven out by Laos tribes from the North and
that they then adopted the name Thai as a sign of victory, Siam
signifying progress.

In 1350, Ayuthia, a few miles north of Bangkok, became the capital; for
three centuries Siam was prosperous and opened trade relations with
China. There were, however, many raids and much fighting until 1536,
when the King was taken prisoner.

The Portuguese commenced trading with Siam early in the sixteenth
century, and soon after gave the Siamese military aid against their
border foes, the troops coming from Goa. As a reward for their services
they were offered land on which to settle. Later, the soldiers married
Siamese women and became domesticated. As they had brought their
Catholic priests with them, conversion of the natives followed, and some
of the old settlements retain their Christian character to this day.

A few years after the Portuguese advent, the Dutch came, but the
English did not arrive until 1620, and during the latter part of the
seventeenth century the three nations were seeking trade relations.
Great toleration and friendliness to other countries seemed to have been
practiced even in that early day; French missionaries were also
welcomed. Soon after, a S