ill have to be roasted dark to develop the aroma.
Therefore, appearance alone is not a proper test. Aroma-saving
devices have had their day. Coffee is of no use unless the aroma is
fully developed, and the more it is developed by roasting the
better it is. What passes off in the roasting process can not be
saved and is so small that if all of it in the country could be
collected and freed of all foreign matter, it would not weigh an
ounce.

Roast coffee over a slow fire so that it will be an hour before it
has the color of roasted coffee, and, in contrast, produce in
another batch of like quantity the same color in thirty minutes,
and it will be found for all intended purposes, either to grind,
sell or drink, that the latter will be, beyond all comparison, the
best. Coffee should be roasted uniform and as quickly as possible,
only it must not be scorched or spotted, otherwise it will have a
bitter burned taste. If roasted properly it will very considerably
increase its bulk and will be plump, swelled out and crisp; easily
crushed in the hand or between the fingers.

In his _Spice Mill Companion_, published in 1879, Jabez Burns said
further in regard to roasting:

All coffees do not roast alike; some will be a bright light color
when done, and others will be dark before done. There are two
infallible rules, which if properly appreciated and tried will
prove to be practically useful. One is, when the aroma is
sufficiently developed to produce a sharp, cutting, but aromatic
sensation in the nose. Those who practice that way do not need to
see the roast. The other rule is that when a berry is broken it is
crisp and uniform in color inside and out. Those who are accustomed
to this method may be good coffee roasters, albeit they may not
have any nose at all. But we must state in this connection, that a
man who has no smell and is color blind is not a fit candidate for
the coffee roasting profession; and, moreover, we affirm that any
person who can not roast coffee, so far as judgment is concerned,
after a few trials, will never make a good operator.

[Illustration: BURNS GRANULATING MILL, 1872-74]

In 1867, Jabez Burns was granted a United States patent on an improved
coffee cooler, mixer, and grinding mill, or granulator. Another
granulator patent was issued to him in