under the shadow
of the tree, or in some favourite corner where you can smoke, and
contemplate the motley guests, formed into calm and solemn groups,
who wish to hold no communion with the Giaour. There is ample food
here for the observer of character, costume and pretension: the
tradesman, the mechanic, the soldier, the gentleman, the dandy, the
grave old man, looking wise on the past and dimly on the future:
the hadge, in his green turban, vain of his journey to Mecca, and
drawing a long bow in his tales and adventures: the long straight
pipe, the hookah with its soft curling tube and glass vase, are in
request: but the poorer argille is most commonly used.

From sunrise to set, these houses are never empty: we were
accustomed to visit one of them early every morning, before
breakfast, and very many persons were already there: yet this
"balmy hour of prime" was the most silent and solitary of the whole
day; it was the coolest also: the rising sun was glancing redly on
the waters: there was as yet no heat in the air, and the little
cup of Mocha coffee and the pipe were handed by an attendant as
soon as the stranger was seated. His favourite Cafe was the one
represented in the plate: the river is the Barrada, the ancient
Pharpar. Never was the sound of many waters so pleasant to the ear
as in Damascus: the air is filled with the sound, with which no
clash of tongues, rolling of wheels, march of footman or horsemen,
mingle: the numerous groups who love to resort here are silent half
the time; and when they do converse, their voice is often "low,
like that of a familiar spirit," or in short grave sentences that
pass quickly from the ear.

[Illustration: A RIVERSIDE CAFE IN DAMASCUS, NINETEENTH CENTURY

After Bartlett and Purser]

Yet much, very much of the excitement of the life of the Turk in
this city, is absorbed in these coffee-houses: they are his opera,
his theatre, his conversazione: soon after his eyes are unclosed
from sleep, he thinks of his Cafe, and forthwith bends his way
there: during the day he looks forward to pass the evening on the
loved floor, to look on the waters, on the stars above, and on the
faces of his friends; and at the moonlight falling on all. Mahomet
committed a grievous error in the omission of coffee-houses, i