e whole thing is slipped into the officer's tunic, and he
goes on, refreshed.

In Persia, where tea is mostly drunk, the Turkish-Arabian methods of
making coffee are followed. In Ceylon and India, the same applies to the
native population, but the whites follow the European practise. In
India, many people look upon coffee as just a _bonne bouche_--a
"chaser." A well known English tea firm has had some success in India
with a tinned "French coffee", which is a blend of Indian coffee and
chicory.

European methods obtain in making coffee in China and Japan, and in the
French and Dutch colonies. When traveling in the Far East one of the
greatest hardships the coffee lover is called upon to endure is the
European bottled coffee extract, which so often supplies lazy chefs with
the makings of a most forbidding cup of coffee.

In Java, a favorite method is to make a strong extract by the French
drip process and then to use a spoonful of the extract to a cup of hot
milk--a good drink when the extract is freshly made for each service.

_Coffee Making in Europe_

In Europe, the coffee drink was first sold by lemonade venders. In
Florence those who sold coffee, chocolate, and other beverages were not
called _caffetieri_ (coffee sellers) but _limonaji_ (lemonade venders).
Pascal's first Paris coffee shop served other drinks as well as coffee;
and Procope's cafe began as a lemonade shop. It was only when coffee,
which was an afterthought, began to lead the other beverages, that he
gave the name cafe to his whole refreshment place.

Today, nearly every country in Europe can supply the two extremes of
coffee making. In Paris and Vienna, one may find it brewed and served in
its highest perfection; but here too it is frequently found as badly
done as in England, and that is saying a good deal. The principal
difficulty seems to be in the chicory flavor, for which long years of
use has cultivated a taste, with most people. Now coffee-and-chicory is
not at all a bad drink; indeed the author confesses to have developed a
certain liking for it after a time in France--but it is not coffee. In
Europe, chicory is not regarded as an adulterant--it is an addition, or
modifier, if you please. And so many people have acquired a
coffee-and-chicory taste, that it is doubtful if they would appreciate a
real cup of coffee should they ever meet it. This, of course, is a
generalization; and like all generalizations, is dangerous, for it _is_
pos