rinks it with seeming relish.
Ice-cold coffee will almost sizzle when _calvados_ is poured into it. It
tastes like a corkscrew, and one drink has the same effect as a crack on
the head with a hammer. From the toddling age up, the Norman takes his
_calvados_ and coffee.

In the south of France they make a concoction from the residue of
grapes. They boil the residue down in water, and get a drink called
_marc_; and it is used in much the same way as the Norman in the north
uses _calvados_. Then there is also the very popular summertime drink
known as _mazagran_, which in that region means seltzer water and cold
coffee, or what Americans might call a coffee highball.

Making coffee in France has been, and always will be, by the drip and
the filtration methods. The large hotels and cafes follow these methods
almost entirely, and so does the housewife. When company comes, and
something unusual in coffee is to be served, Mr. Beeson says he has
known the cook to drip the coffee, using a spoonful of hot water at a
time, pouring it over tightly packed, finely ground coffee, allowing the
water to percolate through to extract every particle of oil. They use
more ground coffee in bulk than they get liquid in the cup, and
sometimes spend an hour producing four or five demi-tasses. It is
needless to say that it is more like molasses than coffee when ready for
drinking.

It is not unusual in some parts of France to save the coffee grounds for
a second or even a third infusion, but this is not considered good
practise.

Von Liebig's idea of correct coffee making has been adapted to French
practise in some instances after this fashion: put used coffee grounds
in the bottom chamber of a drip coffee pot. Put freshly ground coffee in
the upper chamber. Pour on boiling water. The theory is that the old
coffee furnishes body and strength, and the fresh coffee the aroma.

The cafes that line the boulevards of Paris and the larger cities of
France all serve coffee, either plain or with milk, and almost always
with liqueur. The coffee house in France may be said to be the wine
house; or the wine house may be said to be the coffee house. They are
inseparable. In the smallest or the largest of these establishments
coffee can be had at any time of day or night. The proprietor of a very
large cafe in Paris says his coffee sales during the day almost equal
his wine sales.

The French, young or old, take a great deal of pleasure in sitting out