always presented with the coffee; in the khans and
second-rate coffee-houses, it is served already sugared; and that
at Smyrna and Constantinople, it has everywhere been brought to me
sugared.

[Illustration: KRANZLER'S, UNTER DEN LINDEN, BERLIN]

ITALY. In Italy coffee is roasted in a wholesale and retail way as well
as in the home. French, German, Dutch, and Italian machines are used.
The full city, or Italian, roast is favored. There are cafes as in
France and other continental countries, and the drink is prepared in the
French fashion. For restaurants and hotels, rapid filtering machines,
first developed by the French and Italians, are used. In the homes,
percolators and filtration devices are employed.

The De Mattia Brothers have a process designed to conserve the aroma in
roasting. The Italians pay particular attention to the temperature in
roasting and in the cooling operation. There is considerable glazing,
and many coffee additions are used.

Like the French, the Italians make much of _cafe au lait_ for breakfast.
At dinner, the _cafe noir_ is served.

Cafes of the French school are to be found along the Corso in Rome, the
Toledo in Naples, in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuel and the Piazza del
Duomo in Milan, and in the arcades surrounding the Piazza de San Marco
in Venice, where Florian's still flourishes.

NETHERLANDS. In the Netherlands, too, the French cafe is a delightful
feature of the life of the larger cities. The Dutch roast coffee
properly, and make it well. The service is in individual pots, or in
demi-tasses on a silver, nickle, or brass tray, and accompanied by a
miniature pitcher containing just enough cream (usually whipped), a
small dish about the size of an individual butter plate holding three
squares of sugar, and a slender glass of water. This service is
universal; the glass of water always goes with the coffee. It is the one
sure way for Americans to get a drink of water. It is the custom in
Holland to repair to some open-air cafe or indoor coffee house for the
after-dinner cup of coffee. One seldom takes his coffee in the place
where he has his dinner. These cafes are many, and some are elaborately
designed and furnished. One of the most interesting is the St. Joris at
the Hague, furnished in the old Dutch style. The approved way of making
coffee in Holland is the French drip method.

NORWAY AND SWEDEN. French and German influences mark the roasting,
grinding, prepar