depends, is only developed in the berry by the roasting process,
which also is necessary to diminish its toughness, and fit it for
grinding. While roasting, coffee loses from fifteen to twenty-five
percent of its weight, and gains from thirty to fifty percent in
bulk. More depends upon the proper roasting than upon the quality
of the coffee itself. One or two scorched or burned berries will
materially injure the flavor of several cupfuls. Even a slight
overheating diminishes the good taste.

The best mode of roasting, where it is done at home, is to dry the
coffee first, in an open vessel, until its color is slightly
changed. This allows the moisture to escape. Then cover it closely
and scorch it, keeping up a constant agitation, so that no portion
of a kernel may be unequally heated. Too low and too slow a heat
dries it up without producing the full aromatic flavor; while too
great heat dissipates the oily matter and leaves only bitter
charred kernels. It should be heated so as to acquire a uniform
deep cinnamon color, and an oily appearance, but never a deep, dark
brown color. It then should be taken from the fire and kept closely
covered until cold, and further until used. While unroasted coffee
improves by age, the roasted berries will very generally lose their
aroma if not covered very closely. The ground stuff kept on sale in
barrels, or boxes, or in papers, is not worthy the name of coffee.

Coffee should not be ground until just before using. If ground over
night, it should be covered: or, what is quite as well, put into
the boiler and covered with water. The water not only retains the
valuable oil and other aromatic elements, but also prepares it by
soaking for immediate boiling in the morning.

If the coffee pot (the "_Old Dominion_", of course, for in a common
boiler this process would ruin the coffee by wasting the aroma) be
set on the range or stove, or near the fire, so as to be kept hot
all night preparatory to boiling in the morning, the beverage will
be found in the morning, rich, mellow, and of a most delicious
flavor.

Coffee used at supper time should be placed on or near the fire
immediately after dinner and kept hot or simmering--not
boiling--all the afternoon.

Try this method if you wish coffee in perfection.