e--The
new city--American church--_Italian Times_--Departure for Naples--Regrets
--The Three Taverns--A picturesque route--Naples by night.

"'Midst Tivoli's luxuriant glades,
Bright foaming falls, and olive shades,
Where dwelt in days departed long
The sons of battle and of song,
No tree, no shrub, its foliage rears
But o'er the wrecks of other years,
Temples and domes, which long have been
The soil of that enchanted scene.
There the wild fig tree and the vine
O'er Hadrian's mouldering Villa twine;
The cypress in funeral grace
Usurps the vanished column's place;
O'er fallen shrine and ruined frieze
The wall-flower rustles in the breeze;
Acanthus leaves the marble hide
They once adorned in sculptured pride;
And Nature hath resumed her throne
O'er the vast works of ages flown."

One morning we took the steam tramcar to Tivoli. I think there was one
first and one second-class carriage attached to the locomotive. We
travelled at the rate of about nine miles an hour, Tivoli, some twenty
miles off, situated right up among the beautiful distant hills, being
reached in about an hour and a half. Here the wealthy Romans used to go
to enjoy the beauty of Nature, and to rest after the cares of State.

We first came to the great sulphur baths about half-way. The white
sulphurous stream was employed to turn a wheel for cutting slate or
marble, and thence flowed into large and handsome buildings to supply
the baths. A few ladies got out here to enjoy the luxury, and await the
return of the train to Rome. Then away we went again till we reached the
next station, Villa Adriana, once a splendid palace of the Emperor
Hadrian's, now an extensive circle of overgrown ruins. It embraced
everything beautiful in art and nature which its founder had seen and
collected in the course of his expeditions, and was altogether three
miles long and one wide: it comprised a great Lyceum, an Academy, an
Egyptian Serapeon, a Vale of Tempe, several theatres, baths, barracks,
hippodrome, etc., the sites of which can be pretty easily traced. The
statuary and marbles found here are now dispersed among different
museums. Two English ladies got out to sketch, sending their servants on
to Tivoli to prepare their lodgings. We proceeded upwards, winding
through groves of beautiful sombre olives, the light shining on their
silvery-tinted leaves; and as we wound round