ps,
priests, and choir hastening to get through the formula--those who were
not yawning taking snuff. Indeed, there was a dreadful absence of real
Christian humility and reverence. One day we arrived in time to witness
a High Church ceremonial--it was the anniversary of St. Peter. Cardinal
Howard officiated instead of the Pope, who had one of his frequent fits
of the sulks towards Italy. He was supported by all the great
dignitaries and potentates of the Romish Church, "a grotesque company of
old womanish old men in gaudy gowns." The cardinal is a robust
Englishman of the Friar Tuck style--the very antithesis to the
spiritual, thoughtful, Newman type. He is, however, zealous in his
duties, and much liked by the people. The principal part of the ceremony
seemed to consist in the constant changing of the cardinal's gorgeous
robes, accompanied by procession and prayer; and finally, when he left,
the people, more especially the women, rushed to kiss his hand. In spite
of its incongruity in our eyes, it was rather a touching sight, and the
cardinal seemed to realize almost painfully, as we did, the adoration of
the poorer of his flock.

The music was instrumental and vocal, the former composed entirely of
stringed instruments, and we were not at all inspired by it. It was not
to be compared to the fine choirs of St Paul's, the Temple, or,
Westminster Abbey; and for sacred music I think there is nothing like
the grand, melodious swell of the organ. We found none of the grand
Masses or other ceremonies of the Roman Church at St. Peter's, which
could compare for a moment in reverential feeling with the solemn
impressiveness of our own large churches during our beautiful and
eloquent service, which is so full of deep and earnest feeling, and yet
withal so simple that all can understand; and what more sublime than to
hear a vast congregation singing, as with a single voice, one of our
fine old hymns, such as the imperishable and soul-inspiring "Rock of
Ages"? Yet even here I think there is sometimes too much of a secular
character now introduced into church music.

The more one sees of St. Peter's the less easy it is to realize that so
magnificent and wonderful an edifice has been constructed by man.
Compare the stupendous structure with the puny attempts of the present
day. Architecture seems almost a lost art. I think this is owing to
want of patience; the lack of doing all things thoroughly and well; the
preference for mere