a great coat,
sick as I was, laid down in the outer room upon a chest, where I
continued till morning.

One would imagine that in a mountainous country like this, there should
be plenty of goats; and indeed, we saw many flocks of them feeding
among the rocks, yet we could not procure half a pint of milk for our
tea, if we had given the weight of it in gold. The people here have no
idea of using milk, and when you ask them for it, they stand gaping
with a foolish face of surprise, which is exceedingly provoking. It is
amazing that instinct does not teach the peasants to feed their
children with goat's milk, so much more nourishing and agreeable than
the wretched sustenance on which they live. Next day we rowed by Vado
and Savona, which last is a large town, with a strong citadel, and a
harbour, which was formerly capable of receiving large ships: but it
fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of the Genoese, who have partly
choaked it up, on pretence that it should not afford shelter to the
ships of war belonging to those states which might be at enmity with
the republic.

Then we passed Albifola, Sestri di Ponente, Novi, Voltri, and a great
number of villages, villas, and magnificent palaces belonging to the
Genoese nobility, which form almost a continued chain of buildings
along the strand for thirty miles.

About five in the afternoon, we skirted the fine suburbs of St. Pietro
d' Arena, and arrived at Genoa, which makes a dazzling appearance when
viewed from the sea, rising like an amphitheatre in a circular form
from the water's edge, a considerable way up the mountains, and
surrounded on the land side by a double wall, the most exterior of
which is said to extend fifteen miles in circuit. The first object that
strikes your eye at a distance, is a very elegant pharos, or
lighthouse, built on the projection of a rock on the west side of the
harbour, so very high, that, in a clear day, you may see it at the
distance of thirty miles. Turning the light-house point, you find
yourself close to the mole, which forms the harbour of Genoa. It is
built at a great expence from each side of the bay, so as to form in
the sea two long magnificent jettes. At the extremity of each is
another smaller lanthorn. These moles are both provided with
brass-cannon, and between them is the entrance into the harbour. But
this is still so wide as to admit a great sea, which, when the wind
blows hard from south and south-west, is very troublesome