number of cassines, or little white houses, scattered among woods
of olive-trees, that cover the hills; and these are the habitations of
the velvet and damask weavers. Turning Capo Fino we entered a bay,
where stand the towns of Porto Fino, Lavagna, and Sestri di Levante, at
which last we took up our night's lodging. The house was tolerable, and
we had no great reason to complain of the beds: but, the weather being
hot, there was a very offensive smell, which proceeded from some skins
of beasts new killed, that were spread to dry on an outhouse in the
yard. Our landlord was a butcher, and had very much the looks of an
assassin. His wife was a great masculine virago, who had all the air of
having frequented the slaughter-house. Instead of being welcomed with
looks of complaisance, we were admitted with a sort of gloomy
condescension, which seemed to say, "We don't much like your company;
but, however, you shall have a night's lodging in favour of the patron
of the gondola, who is our acquaintance." In short, we had a very bad
supper, miserably dressed, passed a very disagreeable night, and payed
a very extravagant bill in the morning, without being thanked for our
custom. I was very glad to get out of the house with my throat uncut.

Sestri di Levante is a little town pleasantly situated on the seaside;
but has not the conveniency of a harbour. The fish taken here is mostly
carried to Genoa. This is likewise the market for their oil, and the
paste called macaroni, of which they make a good quantity.

Next day, we skirted a very barren coast, consisting of almost
perpendicular rocks, on the faces of which, however, we saw many
peasants' houses and hanging terraces for vines, made by dint of
incredible labour. In the afternoon, we entered by the Porti di Venere
into the bay, or gulf of Spetia or Spezza, which was the Portus Lunae
of the ancients. This bay, at the mouth of which lies the island
Palmaria, forms a most noble and secure harbour, capacious enough to
contain all the navies in Christendom. The entrance on one side is
defended by a small fort built above the town of Porto Venere, which is
a very poor place. Farther in there is a battery of about twenty guns;
and on the right hand, opposite to Porto Venere, is a block-house,
founded on a rock in the sea. At the bottom of the bay is the town of
Spetia on the left, and on the right that of Lerici, defended by a
castle of very little strength or consequence. The whol