with a small garrison, and dined at Massa, which is an
agreeable little town, where the old dutchess of Modena resides.
Notwithstanding all the expedition we could make, it was dark before we
passed the Cerchio, which is an inconsiderable stream in the
neighbourhood of Pisa, where we arrived about eight in the evening.

The country from Sarzana to the frontiers of Tuscany is a narrow plain,
bounded on the right by the sea, and on the left by the Apennine
mountains. It is well cultivated and inclosed, consisting of
meadow-ground, corn fields, plantations of olives; and the trees that
form the hedge-rows serve as so many props to the vines, which are
twisted round them, and continued from one to another. After entering
the dominions of Tuscany, we travelled through a noble forest of
oak-trees of a considerable extent, which would have appeared much more
agreeable, had we not been benighted and apprehensive of robbers. The
last post but one in this days journey, is at the little town of
Viareggio, a kind of sea-port on the Mediterranean, belonging to Lucia.
The roads are indifferent, and the accommodation is execrable. I was
glad to find myself housed in a very good inn at Pisa, where I promised
myself a good night's rest, and was not disappointed. I heartily wish
you the same pleasure, and am very sincerely--Yours.

LETTER XXVII

NICE, January 28, 1765.

DEAR SIR,--Pisa is a fine old city that strikes you with the same
veneration you would feel at sight of an antient temple which bears the
marks of decay, without being absolutely dilapidated. The houses are
well built, the streets open, straight, and well paved; the shops well
furnished; and the markets well supplied: there are some elegant
palaces, designed by great masters. The churches are built with taste,
and tolerably ornamented. There is a beautiful wharf of freestone on
each side of the river Arno, which runs through the city, and three
bridges thrown over it, of which that in the middle is of marble, a
pretty piece of architecture: but the number of inhabitants is very
inconsiderable; and this very circumstance gives it an air of majestic
solitude, which is far from being unpleasant to a man of a
contemplative turn of mind. For my part, I cannot bear the tumult of a
populous commercial city; and the solitude that reigns in Pisa would
with me be a strong motive to choose it as a place of residence. Not
that this would be the only inducement for living at