yet, I do not
find the people in general either more musically inclined, or better
provided with ears than their neighbours. Here is also a wretched troop
of comedians for the burgeois, and lower class of people: but what
seems most to suit the taste of all ranks, is the exhibition of church
pageantry. I had occasion to see a procession, where all the noblesse
of the city attended in their coaches, which filled the whole length of
the great street called the Corso. It was the anniversary of a
charitable institution in favour of poor maidens, a certain number of
whom are portioned every year. About two hundred of these virgins
walked in procession, two and two together, cloathed in violet-coloured
wide gowns, with white veils on their heads, and made a very classical
appearance. They were preceded and followed by an irregular mob of
penitents in sack-cloth, with lighted tapers, and monks carrying
crucifixes, bawling and bellowing the litanies: but the great object
was a figure of the Virgin Mary, as big as the life, standing within a
gilt frame, dressed in a gold stuff, with a large hoop, a great
quantity of false jewels, her face painted and patched, and her hair
frizzled and curled in the very extremity of the fashion. Very little
regard had been paid to the image of our Saviour on the cross; but when
his lady-mother appeared on the shoulders of three or four lusty
friars, the whole populace fell upon their knees in the dirt. This
extraordinary veneration paid to the Virgin, must have been derived
originally from the French, who pique themselves on their gallantry to
the fair sex.

Amidst all the scenery of the Roman catholic religion, I have never yet
seen any of the spectators affected at heart, or discover the least
signs of fanaticism. The very disciplinants, who scourge themselves in
the Holy-week, are generally peasants or parties hired for the purpose.
Those of the confrairies, who have an ambition to distinguish
themselves on such occasions, take care to secure their backs from the
smart, by means of secret armour, either women's boddice, or quilted
jackets. The confrairies are fraternities of devotees, who inlist
themselves under the banners of particular saints. On days of
procession they appear in a body dressed as penitents and masked, and
distinguished by crosses on their habits. There is scarce an
individual, whether noble or plebeian, who does not belong to one of
these associations, which may be compa