e and arms
of Grimaldi.

The Genoese territories begin at Ventimiglia, another town lying on the
coast, at the distance of twenty miles from Nice, a circumstance from
which it borrows the name. Having passed the towns of Monaco, Menton,
Ventimiglia, and several other places of less consequence that lie
along this coast, we turned the point of St. Martin with a favourable
breeze, and might have proceeded twenty miles further before night: but
the women began to be sick, as well as afraid at the roughness of the
water; Mr. R-- was so discomposed, that he privately desired the patron
to put ashore at St. Remo, on pretence that we should not find a
tolerable auberge in any other place between this and Noli, which was
at the distance of forty miles. We accordingly landed, and were
conducted to the poste, which our gondeliere assured us was the best
auberge in the whole Riviera of Genoa. We ascended by a dark, narrow,
steep stair, into a kind of public room, with a long table and benches,
so dirty and miserable, that it would disgrace the worst hedge
ale-house in England. Not a soul appeared to receive us. This is a
ceremony one must not expect to meet with in France; far less in Italy.
Our patron going into the kitchen, asked a servant if the company could
have lodging in the house; and was answered, "he could not tell: the
patron was not at home." When he desired to know where the patron was,
the other answered, "he was gone to take the air." E andato a
passeggiare. In the mean time, we were obliged to sit in the common
room among watermen and muleteers. At length the landlord arrived, and
gave us to understand, that he could accommodate us with chambers. In
that where I lay, there was just room for two beds, without curtains or
bedstead, an old rotten table covered with dried figs, and a couple of
crazy chairs. The walls had been once white-washed: but were now hung
with cobwebs, and speckled with dirt of all sorts; and I believe the
brick-floor had not been swept for half a century. We supped in an
outward room suitable in all respects to the chamber, and fared
villainously. The provision was very ill-dressed, and served up in the
most slovenly manner. You must not expect cleanliness or conveniency of
any kind in this country. For this accommodation I payed as much as if
I had been elegantly entertained in the best auberge of France or Italy.

Next day, the wind was so high that we could not prosecute our voyage,
so tha