as
said to have been made by the emperor Marcus Aurelius; and some of the
vestiges of it are still to be seen in Provence. The truth is, the
nobility of Genoa, who are all merchants, from a low, selfish, and
absurd policy, take all methods to keep their subjects of the Riviera
in poverty and dependence. With this view, they carefully avoid all
steps towards rendering that country accessible by land; and at the
same time discourage their trade by sea, lest it should interfere with
the commerce of their capital, in which they themselves are personally
concerned.

Those who either will not or cannot bear the sea, and are equally
averse to riding, may be carried in a common chair, provided with a
foot-board, on men's shoulders: this is the way of travelling practised
by the ladies of Nice, in crossing the mountains to Turin; but it is
very tedious and expensive, as the men must be often relieved.

The most agreeable carriage from here to Genoa, is a feluca, or open
boat, rowed by ten or twelve stout mariners. Though none of these boats
belong to Nice, they are to be found every day in our harbour, waiting
for a fare to Genoa; and they are seen passing and repassing
continually, with merchandize or passengers, between Marseilles,
Antibes, and the Genoese territories. A feluca is large enough to take
in a post-chaise; and there is a tilt over the stern sheets, where the
passengers sit, to protect them from the rain: between the seats one
person may lie commodiously upon a mattress, which is commonly supplied
by the patron. A man in good health may put up with any thing; but I
would advise every valetudinarian who travels this way, to provide his
own chaise, mattrass, and bedlinnen, otherwise he will pass his time
very uncomfortably. If you go as a simple passenger in a feluca, you
pay about a loui'dore for your place, and you must be intirely under
the direction of the patron, who, while he can bear the sea, will
prosecute his voyage by night as well as by day, and expose you to many
other inconveniencies: but for eight zequines, or four loui'dores, you
can have a whole feluca to yourself, from Nice to Genoa, and the master
shall be obliged to put a-shore every evening. If you would have it
still more at your command, you may hire it at so much per day, and in
that case, go on shore as often, and stay as long as you please. This
is the method I should take, were I to make the voyage again; for I am
persuaded I should find i