The historians of Alexander the Great continually name gold as a
material in dress.[193] Arrian, Justin, and Quintus Curtius, all speak
of golden tissues as part of the luxury of the East.
We hear of Darius' dress woven with golden hawks; and of the golden
spoils of Persepolis; the dresses worn by Alexander's generals, and
all his attendants clothed in purple and gold. Then, perhaps, the
Babylonian tradition was brought to Europe; and ever after, purple and
gold became the state apparel for courtiers as well as kings.[194]
The hangings of scarlet, purple, and gold used at the nuptials of
Alexander, and at his funeral, and his pall of the same material, point
to the fact that gold was a recognized element in splendid textile
weaving, as well as in the earliest ornamental embroideries.[195]
Attalus II., king of Pergamus, was credited with being the inventor of
gold weaving, but this must have been a mistake, as it was practised
long before his time; but he may have devised some splendid golden
tissues, which were called "Attalic," in honour of the king's
patronage.[196] As, however, the gold flat plate or wire was probably
that woven before his time,[197] it is possible that he may have
invented or patronized the making of thread of gold, by twining it
round flax or cotton.[198]
Pliny says gold may be woven or spun like wool without any admixture
of wool or flax,[199] and he quotes as examples the golden garment of
Agrippina, and that worn by Tarquinius Priscus, mentioned by Verrius.
It appears that the Egyptians knew the art of drawing gold wire, as
some pieces have been found in their jewellery;[200] but we know not
by what process it was worked, either then, or in the dark ages.
A mechanic of Nuremberg, in the fourteenth century, invented a machine
for the purpose; and this art of drawing wire was introduced into
England 200 years later, in 1560.
The pure cut gold was in use in Rome to a late date.[201] St. Cecilia,
martyred 230 A.D., was buried with her golden mantle lying at her
feet; and in 821, when Pope Pascal opened her grave, he found the
evidence of her martyrdom in that splendid garment, showing that it
had been soaked in blood.[202]
There were found under the foundations of the new Basilica of St.
Peter's, the bodies of Probus Anicius and his wife, Proba Faltonia, in
a wrapping of gold.
Dr. Rock gives us more examples,[203] but we will only add that of the
wife of the Emperor Honorius,
|