f they
detected any one making a cheaper or better article,
they were empowered to fine or imprison them, while a
clause in their patent protected themselves. The
manufacturers of this base metal thread were two
Frenchmen, Mompesson and Michel, and Edward Villiers,
the Marquis' brother, was one of the firm. Doubtless
they drove for a time a roaring trade, as gold
embroideries were then universally worn, both by men and
women; but the House of Commons interfered, and the
monopoly was abolished.

[221] Mitre of white satin, with two figure subjects in
flat gold--the martyrdom of St. Stephen, and that of St.
Thomas of Canterbury.

[222] The School of Gold Embroidery at Munich produces
work of a richness and precision which has, perhaps,
never been excelled. The raised parts of the design are
first cast in soft hollow "carton," and the gold is
worked on it and into the recesses with the help of a
fine stiletto, which pioneers the needle for each
stitch. This is embroidery "on the stamp," but without
padding.

[223] Bock, "L. Gewaender," vol. i. p. 48. Prizes are
offered at Lyons for the best mode of manufacturing gold
and silver thread that will not tarnish.

[224] Yates says, pp. 160-162: "Whether silk was
mentioned in the Old Testament cannot, perhaps, be
determined. After fully considering the subject,
Braunius decides against silk being known to the Hebrews
in ancient times ('De Vestitu Heb. Sacerdotum,' i. c.
viii.)." The contrary opinion is founded on the passage,
"I clothed thee with broidered work, and shod thee with
badger-skins. I girded thee about with fine linen, and
covered thee with silk" (_meshi_).--Ezekiel xvi. But the
translation is disputed.

[225] "Code of Manu," xi. 168; xii. 64. Yates,
"Textrinum Antiquorum," p. 204.

[226] Auberville, "Ornement des Tissus," p. ii.

[227] Yates (pp. 173, 174) believes that "Cos" should
always be read for Cios, about which there seems to be
some confusion. Chios has also been substituted for the
name of "Cos," the island.

There is no doubt that the Roman ladies obtained their
most splendid garments from Cos--perhaps of wool as well
as of silk.

[228] Birdwood, "Textile Arts of India," ii. p. 269.

[229] Yates, "Textrinum Antiquorum," p. 204.

[230] Yates, "Textrinu