ringes,
or embroideries). The nearest approach to laces before the thirteenth
century was more in the nature of what we now call guimp.[355]

Embroidery differs from lace, in that it is worked on already woven
tissues; whereas lace is manufactured at once, both ground and
design.[356] But the link between the two is not missing.

In the twelfth century they worked "opus filatorium," which consisted
of embroidery with the needle on linen, of which half the threads had
been drawn out, and the remainder were worked into a net by knotting
them into groups, then dividing, and knotting them again.[357] There
is a piece of work described in an old catalogue quoted by Rock. "St.
Paul's, London, had a cushion covered with knotted thread: Pulvinar
copertum de albo filo nodato." Here lace and embroidery touch each
other.[358] Sir Gardiner Wilkinson notices some early Egyptian work in
the Louvre as "a piece of white network pattern, each mesh containing
an irregular cubic figure." This sounds much like lace-work.

It may be fairly asserted that the term "embroidery" embraces the
craft of lace-making, as almost all ancient and much modern lace is
simple embroidery, and formed entirely by the needle.

Some kinds of lace, however, are made by plaiting and twisting the
threads attached to bobbins round pins which are previously arranged
in the holes of a pattern, pricked on parchment or glazed paper.[359]
The original motive and idea of lace is a net. The patterns called by
the ancients "de fundata," are netted designs meshed. You will see
them constantly in Egyptian and Greek art, both in wall painting and
textile decoration. Homer speaks of golden cauls, and so does
Isaiah,[360] as adorning women's heads. They also mention nets of
flax.

The capitals of the brazen columns adorned with "nets of chequer work"
in Solomon's Temple are very curious.[361] And the author of "Letters
from Italy, 1776," tells of the garment of a statue at Portici, edged
with a border resembling fine netting. Egyptian robes of state appear
to have been sometimes trimmed with an edging of a texture between
lace and fringe.[362]

Lace has been made of many materials in many ways. We may instance
"passementerie," made with bobbins (bone lace), with or without pins,
or with the needle only, by hand. The materials have been gold,
silver, silk, thread (these two last white or coloured), the fibres of
plants, and human hair.[363] A lace called "yak" is made of