er, "Der Stil," i. pp. 132, 203.
[325] See Semper, "Der Stil," i. p. 289.
[326] Ibid. He cites Athenaeus, iv. 64.
[327] Phrygia in general, and especially Babylon, were
famed for their embroideries. "Colores diversos picturae
intexere Babylon maxime celebravit et nomen
imposuit."--Pliny, lib. viii. 74. See D'Auberville,
"Ornement des Tissus," p. 7.
[328] "Der Stil," i. p. 196. "Opus Phrygium," in the
Middle Ages, included all gold work in flat stitches.
The cloak worked by Queen Gisela in the ninth century,
for her husband, St. Stephen, King of Hungary, the
imperial mantle at Bamberg, of the date of 1024, and the
robes of Bishop William de Blois (thirteenth century),
in the library at Worcester Cathedral, are all "opus
Phrygium," and resemble each other in style.
[329] In the Museum at Munich are two remarkable
examples of these imitations. There is an embroidered
badge of the Order of the Dragon, worked in gold and
woven over with coloured silks, so as to present the
appearance of enamel (sixteenth century). The second is
a dress for a herald of the Order of St. Hubertus, which
is richly embroidered in gold and silver, and the badge
and collar are imitated in the most extraordinary
manner, and laid on entirely in gold needlework. This is
of the seventeenth century.
[330] In Salt's collection from Saccarah (British
Museum); also at Turin, in the Egyptian Museum; and in
the collections in the Louvre, figured by Auberville in
the "Ornamentation des Tissus."
[331] Hence the French name, _pointes comptees_.
[332] See Semper, ii. p. 213, for wood-work at
Panticapaeum, Kertch, in the Crimea, which evidently has
descended in style from panelled needlework hangings.
Chaldean wall decoration at Khorsabad and Warka, near
Nimroud, recalls the effect of "opus pulvinarium"
according to Loftus. See Semper, i. p. 327.
[333] "Der Stil," i. pp. 196, 248. This is known from
the archaic books of imperial commerce.
[334] Peacocks' feathers, either woven or onlaid, are
those most commonly used in China and Japan. "Ka Moolelo
Hawaii," by M. Jules Remy, Paris, 1861. See Ferdinand
Denis, "Arte Plumaria," p. 66.
[335] Yates, "Textrinum Antiquorum," p. 373, translates
from Publius Syrus the word _plumata_, "feathered." The
word "embroidere
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