by Hiram of Tyre, at Solomon's desire (1 Kings vii. 17).

[362] A fringe lace is made on the Riviera, of the
fibres of the aloe, and is called "macrame," which is an
Arabic word. Mrs. Palliser's "History of Lace," p. 64.

[363] A collar of fine white human hair was made in
point lace stitches at Venice, and worn at his
coronation by Louis Quatorze. It cost 250 pieces of
gold. "Scritti di V. Zanon da Udine" (1829). Cited by
Urbani de Gheltof, "Merletti di Venezia," pp. 22, 23.

[364] See, for example, the inventory of the household
goods of the great Earl of Leicester at Longleat; also
the lists of the possessions of Ippolito and Angela
Sforza (sixteenth century).

[365] Coloured thread and silk laces are still made in
Venice.

[366] In the British Museum.

[367] M. Blanc's use of the word "guipure" is different
from that found in the notices of the art by other
authorities.

[368] The first lace-making machine was contemporary, or
nearly so, with the stocking-making frame. About the
year 1768 it was altered, and adapted for making
open-work patterns. In 1808, the Heathcot machine was
started for bobbin net. In 1813, John Leaver improved on
this idea, with machine-woven patterns. The Jacquard
apparatus achieved the flat patterns, and the new
"Dentelliere" has perfected the art. Lace-making by
machinery employed by the latest official returns in
1871, 29,370 women in England, and 24,000 in France. See
Encyclopaedia Britannica, 9th edition, p. 183-5.

[369] M. Charles Blanc, "Art in Ornament and Dress," p.
211.

[370] The information contained in these volumes is most
valuable, for the lace-worker as well as the collector.

[371] Lady Layard suggests that the cut lace work, which
was the earliest made in Venice ("punto tagliato,"
"point coupe"), simply consists of button-hole stitch
with purl ornaments. These are varied with geometrical
stitches and needle-weaving in those solid laces called
"punti tagliati Fogliami," and "Rose point de Venise,"
of the finest kinds.

[372] Urbani de Gheltof, in his book, "Merletti di
Venezia," p. 9, says that Venetian laces and fringes
were furnished thence for the coronation of Richard III.
(1483). I fancy that gold guimps or braid, rather than
netted laces, must be here intended, as we ha